New Fashion: Interventions in Materials and Techniques is the newest exhibition at the Fashion Space galleries at the London College of Fashion. This is the first in a series of three exhibits; starting with fashion design, then moving on to illustration and finally photography.
New Fashion explores how eight fresh designer labels are pushing boundaries in how they create contemporary womenswear, with garments chosen from both graduate and recent collections. It is interesting to see how the exhibition has been put up; it’s divided into four categories (emotion, tradition, form and forward thinking) instead of having them presented per designer.
I would say the by far most interesting piece at New Fashion is by Una Burke. Being leather and studs, and very much restrictive in how they are worn, they can almost remind a bit of S&M. They are the only two pieces under the category emotion. Burke had one piece called ‘Praying arm’, which certainly made me think twice, as at a first glance the first word to pop into my mind was a straightjacket. Beautiful non-the-less.
One label I can’t go without mentioning is Fyodor Golan, who won this years Fashion Fringe award. They had two outfits on show, one of which was a beautifully crafted embossed leather dress. Even though made of such a harsh material it looked elegant, sleek, and even feminine.
The same terminology can be used to describe both of Nicola Morgan’s dresses, both of which were an eyesight made out of silk jersey in deep red and black.
Derek Lawlor (main image above) also had two pieces showcased; one from his graduate collection from Central St. Martins, the other one from his A/W ’10 collection. He said he really enjoyed being involved in the exhibit, him being an UAL student himself. For him the garments showcased were all about pushing his technical skills, and further developing what he did through his masters. Lawlor specializes in knitwear, adding wax cord to his knit to make loops and patters, which results in a very curious 3D effect.
The turn up for the opening was great, the gallery stayed packed with people until it closed, and to end with the words of Leanne Wiarzba, one of the curators, ‘you shouldn’t expect anything less with such incredible talented designers.’