Guest post by Caner Daywood
It has been flippantly said many times that men’s fashion is “really having a moment right now”, and I think even I have uttered this on several occasions to clients I style and across blogs etc. However, I honestly *hand held on double-breasted lapel and heart* believe that what we have witnessed across the last few days at London Collections: Men (appropriately abbreviated to LCM) has been nothing short of bold, brave and new.
With crazy pastels and neons, mad prints and of course fantastic tailoring the light has truly been shone upon the talent of British menswear designers with many others now starting to take part in LCM like Jimmy Choo.
As a fan of sharp suits and unique tailoring Alexander McQueen‘s / Sarah Burton’s vision of SS14 tailoring is truly transcendent and intrinsic to the brand with their magnificent signature lacework and skull prints that still manage to retain masculine silhouettes and designs.
Set in the urban background of the St Martin’s Old College the juxtaposition of crystal sharp tailoring against the cobbled floor and stone arches drenched in smoke gave the collection a sense of awe and triumph which I think are now becoming McQueen’s trademark for menswear whilst still infusing the signature symbols of the skulls and laser lacework. In my view what McQueen managed to do with their SS14 collection was to really set the bar for the other designers to consider what the future of menswear can look like; not ultra crazy and feminine weirdos like J W Anderson’s halter tops and dresses for boys (click to view) but by infusing an element of gender-f*ck in terms of fabric and movement one can build this new texture and style for a man’s silhouette.
Another designer who stood out for me was Richard Nicoll and his SS14 collection of graphic images and print splashed with colour and fun. In an almost Givenchy-esque manner Nicoll used funky, trendy graphics of men digitally mapped to the clothes which is very vogue right now with the new wave of graphic print emerging.
Nicoll’s collection was very diverse and he didn’t just rely on the strong imagery of the graphic prints but played with colour and other prints too like reptile print which is set to be a huge trend for men next season, as well as leopard print like Katie Eary’s collection which I also loved.
Katie Eary was one of the newer and brighter stars coming from LCM, with others like Christopher Shannon and Sibling, and her eccentric and flamboyant SS14 menswear collection attributes to this. Eary, Shannon and Sibling were all much bolder with their use of colour and print with Eary choosing to go with a collection of burnt orange, flamingo and faded leopard print (yes almost Kenzo-esque).
The outspoken Christopher Shannon (whose tweets are hilariously and brutally real) chose to highlight pvc and latex in different neon colours and psychedelic prints which were innovative, fashion forward and quite wearable.
Ultimately these are just some of my personal opinions and favourites from LCM and they represented some of the key trends coming forward and I just caught a glimpse of Burberry and E Tautz’s collections and similarly they were exploding with colour and bold print innovations. It seems to me that finally menswear styles and trends are catching up with women. About frickin’ time!